It felt as though the universe had conspired to bring us to Prayagraj, the sacred city of the Kumbh Mela. With no prior plans, we had only considered it a fleeting thought. Yet, fate had other designs. My husband, a Master Mariner, had just returned home, and we had our commitments at home. An urgent work obligation led us to Delhi, and a delay in that matter allowed us a small window of opportunity to take a dip at the holy Triveni Sangam and mark our attendance at the Maha Kumbh.
Significance of Mahakumbh
The Kumbh Mela is an important religious festival in India, occurring every 12 years at four sacred places: Haridwar, Prayagraj, Nashik, and Ujjain. However, every 144 years, a special Mahakumbh takes place, adding to its significance for millions of Hindus. Believers think that a holy dip at the Triveni Sangam, where the Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati rivers converge, can wash away sins and lead to salvation or Moksha. Sadhus like the Naga and Aghoris hold their special functions during the festival. This year’s special Mahakumbh attracted millions of pilgrims, filling the atmosphere with prayers, celebrations, and community spirit. Beyond its spiritual essence, the Mahakumbh is a time for cultural exchange, featuring various spiritual leaders and artists. It also brings economic benefits to host towns, boosting local businesses and tourism. This year’s event, with its rarity and importance, drew even more attention and participation.
Our journey – a roadtrip
The drive from Delhi to Prayagraj was straightforward, but the real challenge lay ahead: navigating through the throngs of people that descended upon the city. Traffic was heavy, and it took us five grueling hours to reach our homestay managed by Sapna Shukla, located about three kilometers from the boat club where we would embark on our journey to Triveni Sangam. Upon arrival around 9:30 pm, we were struck by the sheer scale of the event, with crowds stretching as far as we could see. After some rest, we woke up the next morning for our holy snan (dip).
Setting out early, we were eager to experience the magic of the Kumbh Mela. Our plan to take a boat at 9:30 am was quickly thwarted; boats would only be available after 12 pm. Undeterred, we pressed on, but the growing crowd filled us with trepidation. Just when hope seemed lost, a boatman approached and offered to take us across the Yamuna River to Triveni Sangam.
As we set sail on our small wooden boat, a sense of wonder washed over us. The Yamuna flowed majestically beneath us, its waters sparkling in the sunlight. The air was filled with the sweet scent of incense, accompanied by chanting and laughter. It felt like we had entered a different world, far removed from the chaos of everyday life. As we glided across the river, our spirits soared, and our hearts swelled with gratitude for this unexpected detour. This moment, we knew, would stay with us long after we departed. Sitting together in the boat, we took a moment to count our blessings amid the serene beauty of the ghats lined with pilgrims immersing themselves in the holy waters.
I struck up a conversation with the boatman, Ram Lal, curious about why he approached us while we transitioned between boats. He explained that he noticed my worry and wanted to help. This act of kindness led to a meaningful exchange. Ram Lal shared how he juggles multiple jobs to support his family: collecting sand from the Ganges, working in construction during the monsoon, and renting boats for joyrides during festivals. He proudly mentioned his three school-going children and how the Mahakumbh had significantly improved his income.After paying him for our private ride, he skillfully guided us to the best spot for our sacred dip and even filled two cans with holy water from Triveni Sangam. I took his number and have since shared his details with friends planning to visit Kumbh. This experience deepened our appreciation for the divine connection and connected us to the vibrant community that makes this festival special.
We returned quite late in the day and met Shashi Bhushan Mishra, an old classmate and dear friend of my husband, after 40 years. Meeting him and his lovely wife, Nisha, was delightful.
The Journey – back home
As we prepared to leave Prayagraj, we set off at 6:30 PM, but heavy traffic turned our short drive into a seven-hour ride. By 1:15 AM, we desperately needed a place to rest. We spotted a marriage hall with a sign reading, “Rooms Available.” I approached some young men at the entry gate who confirmed they had space. I called my husband to park inside the lawn, and we went to check the room. It was small, with just four beds, but it was all we needed. Although it was a bit pricey, we had no other option. The hall bustled with makeshift bedding everywhere to accommodate guests. It felt like an extension of the Kumbh spirit, with the sense of community staying in tents.
We settled into our room and received drinking water before resting. In the morning, we enjoyed tea and prepared for the journey ahead. I spoke with the young men managing the hall and was impressed by their resourcefulness. Vinod, aged 23, had been organizing events of all kinds for five years. He rented the hall and left the decorations from a wedding two days prior while providing accommodations for around 450 guests that night alone. I admired how these young men seized the opportunity to generate revenue and in turn serve the community.
We finally left Prayagraj around 10 am, aiming to stop for the night in Nagpur. However, the roads were slow, with heavy traffic jams, including a backup that stretched 70 kilometers into Madhya Pradesh. By 2 pm, we sought lunch but faced a long search. Every restaurant and dhaba was packed, with waits of over an hour. After what felt like an endless search, we finally found a place and waited over an hour for a simple meal, finally eating around 4:30 pm.
After a quick tea, we resumed our journey, but time was against us, so I searched for hotels nearby. Approaching Shiveni, I found one but learned it was fully booked. However, persistence and a conversation with the manager allowed us to secure a room. When we arrived, the sign at the entrance to the city read- ‘Welcome to the city of Shiva and the birthplace of Mowgli.’ Felt another divine connection. The brand-new hotel had spacious rooms, and we all fit comfortably. After a good hot bath, Dad treated us to a wonderful dinner, and despite our exhaustion, we couldn’t resist the delicious food.
Waking up early the next day, we enjoyed hot tea and prepared for the final phase of our journey. We bypassed Nagpur city and headed down the Samruddhi Highway, stopping for breakfast and fuel. Though options were limited on the expressway, we appreciated the simple joys after being away for so long.
The drive home was smooth, and after a late lunch stop, we arrived back around 10 PM. The entire experience felt surreal and spiritual, filling us with gratitude to the almighty and for everyone who helped us: the kind staff at Zone by the Park in Udaipur, Mr. Vikas Alhuwalia for the connection, my cousin Poonam and her husband Manoj, Renu aunty and uncle in Ghaziabad for their generous hospitality, and my batchmate Vikas Nagrare’s friend Ajeet Sharma in Prayagraj, who connected us to the resourceful Shailesh and Satish Kumar.
Gratitude for the divine intervention
I’ve wanted to write about my experiences for a while but never finished the story. The Mahakumbh was a remarkable journey filled with miracles which I can’t explain they have just been pure blessings. I hadn’t planned to go, despite wishing to in my heart, as I was tied down at home with my bedridden in-laws and my younger son preparing for his 10th-grade board exams.
However, circumstances changed, and I found myself able to visit the holy festival with my husband and par
ents. My sister had already made plans to go, but I hadn’t fully committed. My sister Rajani and her husband Sahil were the first in
our family to take the holy dip on February 3, 2025, during the Shahi Snan. Then, on February 8, which was the auspicious day of Ekadashi, my parents, husband, and I followed suit. Just yesterday, my brother Naveenjeet was also blessed to attend on Shivratri and take the holy dip.
As devotees of Lord Shiva, it felt meaningful that we all had the opportunity to be part of this sacred event, especially since my brother had missed out earlier. Collecting the holy water from Triveni Sangam was a touching experience, and we shared it as prashad with our extended family, including our brothers and sisters-in-law.
Returning home filled with blessings, I am grateful for this remarkable journey that I will cherish forever. I felt like the chosen one! Thank you Mahadev!!
The Mahakumbh is not just a pilgrimage; it is a journey of the soul, uniting us with the divine and with one another.
